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Briar sewalong

Hello everyone!

This month has been super busy. The first weekend we had a family outing to Drenthe. It was quite cold, but that’s ok because we had a sauna and bath to keep us warm! It was great to see my niece and nephew for longer than a few hours. Then the second week, my sister and her boyfriend came to visit for a whole 9 days! I hadn’t seen my sister in a year, and even then it was only for a little over a day! Not that we had much sister time the last week; we were mainly hanging out with the four of us. Plus, I don’t think my sister likes being away from her boyfriend for more than a few minutes 😉

So in between, I was able to sew up a briar top for the sewalong. I cut out the fabric on one day and sewed it up the next. It’s a very easy pattern, as it only has 5 pieces (or 6 if you count the pocket). I thought I had 2 spools of grey thread, but I only have one, so I’ve yet to hem it. Although, I think I will only hem the sleeves anyway because it’s already the perfect length for me. That’s the nice thing about knits, you can leave them unfinished and it won’t unravel.

Here are a couple of black and white pictures from my instagram feed. I finally got my tripod back, so you’ll see me modeling it pretty soon.

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Design notes:

  • I left out the pocket because I’m not a huge fan of pockets that are not functional
  • Sleeves and bottom are unhemmed (will hem sleeves once I get another spool of thread)
  • Will add 2cm to the length for future briar projects
  • made from 1m of lightweight knit fabric from my stash, unknown fiber content
  • used the neckline band (as opposed to neckline binding)
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Reveal: Vogue 1152

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This is the Vogue 1152 dress, designed by Rebecca Taylor. The fabric I chose for this is a navy cotton with white polka dots. I love the design. There are a lot of beautiful elements without it being over-designed, like the piping and gathering.

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This project had a lot of firsts for me. It was the first time I did any piping. It was the first time I did knife pleats (in the tops of the sleeves). It was the first time I put in an invisible zipper. Of these things, the invisible zipper was the least successful. I don’t have an invisible zipper foot, so you can see the zipper a little bit. But the zipper colour matches the fabric almost exactly, so it isn’t very noticeable.

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The back looks a little bit like the front, but it has elastic instead of gathering. Very comfortable!

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Using regular cotton may not have been the best fabric choice for this dress. Something softer with a bit more drape would have made it look even more fabulous. But it’s a very comfortable and cool dress, and washable!

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Sorry for the incongruency in the photo edits. I’m playing around with photoshop to see what I like, and I’m just trying out new techniques as I go along.

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Yay!

Thanks Mr. Livana for taking the photos!

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Reveal: Belladone dress from Deer and Doe

Belladone, how do I love thee? Let me count the gorgeous ways.

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One, its design. That back cut out is sexy with no hint of trashy. There are pockets too! It is designed for non-stretch, woven fabrics, which are the easiest types to sew. Two, the instructions. The instruction booklet (also gorgeous, by the way) contains concise, but clear instructions on how to make your garment. There are also great diagrams. But if you’re like me and you usually only look at the diagrams and don’t read the content, think again. Not every step is diagrammed! Thank goodness the instructions are not long-winded, so I skimmed everything and didn’t miss anything. Third, the pattern itself. It is printed on good quality paper so you don’t tear the pieces, and you can use them over and over. (Actually, I want to make one for my sister too, so I ended up tracing the pattern to tissue paper anyway). And all of the pieces fit together beautifully. There was no bunching in places. The curves matched each other perfectly, even with my pattern adjustments to account for my small bust and large hips.

Simply a dream to cut out and to sew!

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I used stretch denim from my stash, and standard orange bias binding. I even had blue thread left over from a previous project still in my sewing machine. The only thing I didn’t have was a zipper. So I sewed up the top part of the dress, ordered a zipper, then two days later started sewing up a storm again when I saw the zipper in my mailbox. Yay!

I didn’t make a muslin for this garment. In fact, I confess that I don’t make a muslin for anything! Although, I am definitely starting to see the light. I think I may have to start doing them on projects where I use expensive fabric and want a great fit.

I was a little bit apprehensive that it wouldn’t fit. This is my second time sewing with an indie pattern (my first being Megan Nielson). And I already know from experience that out of the big pattern companies, only Vogue tends to be true-to-size for me.

Well, I was right to be nervous. As you can see from this picture, the bust darts are much too high. The waistband hits my lower ribs instead of my waist, so it fits almost like an empire-waisted dress. But I must say, even though it doesn’t fit correctly vertically, the width fits quite well, and it’s very very comfortable! It’s great to wear with a turtleneck and a pair of leggings in the winter and I think it will be great in the summer as a dress because the cutout in the back will keep you cool.

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Thanks Mr. Livana for taking these photos!

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I love the detailing on the denim, don’t you?

Next time I make this dress, in addition to lengthening the bodice, I shall NOT use stretch fabric. You can see from the picture above, the upper back does not lay flat. Also, although I matched my seams and the top perfectly for my zipper, it stretched and shifted when I sewed, so the waist band doesn’t match perfectly, nor does the top of the zipper. aaarg.

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Inspiration from Angels Never Die Winter collection

I love Angels Never Die. It’s a clothing company based in Turkey. I have a few of their dresses, but they’re quite expensive. Well, maybe not expensive if you compare it to other designer brands, but still, out of my price range. I’d like to try to recreate some of the looks if I can. I already have something in mind. I made up an inspiration board, which I’ll share with you a bit later.

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This one’s a bit vampirish without being too over the top.

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I love the topstitching on the bodice. It makes it look corset-like.

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I bought this one

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I really want to make one like this, but I have no idea how to ruche the sides like that while keeping the front panel smooth. I feel an experiment coming on…

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Warm, yet stylish. Yes, please!

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So sweet. I love the ruffle detailing. It’s darling, but not too cutesy, like you’re wearing kid’s clothes.

 

So get on over to angelsneverdie.com to check out their full collection.

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The nightmare that is the Olivia shoes

So I decided to make these super cute house shoes by ithinksew.com.

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Aren’t they adorable! I picked out this amazing [fake] chinese silk from my stash and imitation silk for the lining as well. I decided to make the sole out of imitation leather to give some extra warmth and anti-slipiness.

As it turns out, sewing this shoe (not shoes because I decided to do one at a time – thank goodness) was a waste of time and a waste of pretty fabric.

Here’s a picture of my finished product:

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It looks pretty, but looks can be deceiving!!!  If you look closer, you can probably see fuzzies from the ravelling silk protruding from many of the seams because the seam allowance is so small that any kind of unravelling can easily get out! And the other problem about having such small seams is that there is very little room for error!! I had to redo quite a few of the seams because I missed layers. The faux leather was also a very bad choice because you can feel the seam inside of the shoe when you walk on it.

So, I think it was a combination of fabric choice and the pattern design. Also, the instructions weren’t always very clear, and the photos to go with the instructions were even less clear at times. Also, the border across the top tapers, but the instructions don’t tell you which side to attach. I’m a pretty experienced clothing sewer, so it would probably be difficult for beginners I think.

Here’s what I would do differently if I were to make it again:

  • Make the seam allowance at least 1cm (3/8″), then trim them all.
  • Use only light or medium weight fabrics to reduce bulk (thus, only use fabrics that are suggested in the pattern).
  • Try to make the sole a bit wider to fit my foot better.

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So frustrating…

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Anouk inspiration board

Anouk inspiration board

Here’s what I have planned for next month’s sewing creation.
Thanks to RLR creations for the free template!

 

5 february update: I’m not sure I’ll be able to get around to this in February. My lovely sister and her boyfriend are coming to visit me next week, so I think this was a bit of a stretch…

It’s been a while

Ok, so it’s been a while since I’ve blogged anything. I have a pretty good excuse though. First I went on internship at MetFarm and now I’m working on my thesis so I can finish up my Masters degree. Below is a picture from the project I did during my internship. This week I had an interesting interview with John Apesos of Symbicity. We had a talked about vertical farming, LED lighting, and food in general.

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On a more crafty note, I have been posting sewing project progress photos on my tumblr site. I shall reserve this blog here for the final reveals of my projects.

Photo copyright of Joanne Smolka.

Meaning of Zoe Livana

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Zoe Livana is not my real name, it’s my alter ego. I love the names because they are quite unique and beautiful.  They are both of Greek origin, and together they mean ‘life goddess.’ To me, that is what women are. They have the power to carry life within them. It is mysterious and miraculous how a woman’s body makes room to grow a life within them after conception.

Alternatively, Livana is also of Hebrew origin, but means ‘Moon.’ It doesn’t have quite the same effect…

I don’t quite remember how I came up with it. It was almost 10 years ago I think. I believe I was trolling baby names websites in seach of cool names I could use as a brand.

I’d like to thank Natasha Ivanco for designing my banner and these awesome logos! She is a great photographer and graphic designer. <3

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New project: patchwork tunic

My next project will be a patchwork tunic. It is based on McCalls 6359. I traced out the pattern on my own paper so I could draw my pattern on it. I have no idea if this will be a success or not. Looking at it, it seems huge, but maybe it is supposed to be loose. We shall see soon enough.

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Established 2012

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Welcome to my blog, where you will read about my adventures in sewing. I mainly sew women’s clothing, but I also sew kid’s clothes, accessories, and blankets now and then. I hope you enjoy reading!